![]() ![]() Do a cut lapp and grind edge of glass to deck concave. I used 2x 15mm carbon tow tape and 2x 200g twill eglass. Trying to find good source of bamboo.įirst I laminate bottom and wrap laminate around rails to taped off deck. I have a Swedish source and a stack of it from earlier project. It's twice as dense as balsa, but not as hard as bamboo. Veneer is 1,2mm Abachi, it is light wood. I'm not sure of its density but it's some where between 1-2 lb per square foot. It's good to read up and get a solid theoretical ground to stand on, and then get out of the library and start shaping.įor first board I used xps foam that is blue colored and used for ground insulation. Greenlight surf supply has a good intro to board building. All your curves should be smooth and curve analysis " combs" super smooth. Keep tail rocker about 1 1/4 inch, nose rocker 3", rocker in smooth curve, avoid 3 step rocker. My hypothesis is its better in messy chop and wind waves I ride with powered kite in onshore conditions. I made mine much much thinner, it's down to 15mm in certain sections. The Tomo Evo shape is working great for me. This way you don't have to have the deep knowledge. You can make some tweeks to that design but keep close to it. I recommend you copy a design that you feel excited about or you think might work for you. Rail shape is also complex, but there's a pretty standard approach on shortboards that works well.įin placement and types is super complex, you'll have to read about it. Rockers are complicated and there are many interdependent variables I don't have experience with, but read a lot about it. Outlines are a pretty straightforward subject. I've read a lot, looked at a lot of boards in shops. I'm sure there are many primers on the Internet. You can learn about it by reading on swaylocks and reading Daniel Thomson's work. This limits details that can be milled.īoard design is pretty complicated subject. It's 3 axis, but uses unique cutting disk and longitudinal feed. Akushaper and Shape 3D are set up to create files for board shaping machines. It allows easier control of board shapes than traditional CAD.īut your cnc machine may not be compatible. It's worth the effort to learn Akushaper or Shape 3D. is that what they used to cut your boards or did they use a 5 axis? our CNC is what they call 2.5d it cuts a shape and that shape can be machined on the z axis. ![]() I can start from scratch buy there must be some hydro dynamics to consider can you point me in a good spot for light reading?Ģ. are there some basic rules to follow when shaping. I work in AutoCad daily in 3D environment modeling solids and also run our CNC in the shop from time to time when they are too busy.ġ. ![]() If you're in the UK, you have close access to machines and you can shape them one at a time.I had to do 3 at once to make shipping affordable. Shaping in CAD takes some time and training to be able to see or visualize what you're going to get irl. The Akushaper and cnc route saves a lot of time and improves accuracy and repeatability. I've made some blanks out of builders eps, cut them with a hotwire. ![]()
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